The Town Of LaSalle - Septic Systems

I want to build a house where there are no sewer lines in the area, I will need a septic system. What steps do I need to take to get the septic system built?

Septic systems are permitted through local health departments. A professional engineer is often required to conduct percolation tests and describe the soil below the area of the system. A good plot plan which shows distances from property lines, wells, and other site features should be drawn.

Septic systems should be at least 100 feet from all wells and surface water. The size of the septic system is based upon the number of residents, the number of bedrooms, and from percolation test results.

Apply for a permit at your county health department to construct a septic system. Fees for this permit can be about $200. A site inspection must be made by an environmental health specialist before a building permit for the house can be issued. A licensed septic system installer should install the system. A final inspection is made by the county health department when all of the pipes are in place.

Click here for a copy of the New Home Septic System Application (pdf)

How does a septic system work?

There are two main parts to the basic septic system: the tank and the drain field.

The household wastewater flows into the tank where the average detention time is 30 hours. The tank should have at least 1,000 gallon capacity.

Three layers are formed in the septic tank.

There are baffles in the tank which keep the wastewater flowing though the tank at a level near the middle of the tank.
Solids settle to the bottom forming a layer of sludge.
The grease and foam float to the top forming a scum layer.

Both the sludge and scum layers remain in the tank where bacteria work to break them down. In time, the layers build in size. When the layers become too large and take up too much space in the tank, the tank needs to be pumped. Every 3 years the tank should be pumped out by a licensed septic system pumper. If the system is not pumped out when it is full of solids, the wastewater is not fully treated and solid material can be carried into the drain field.

Solids in the drain field can clog pipes and seal pores in the soil. When the pores become sealed with solids the water no longer percolates as it should.

The drain field provides additional treatment of the wastewater. In the drain field, wastewater trickles though a series of perforated pipes, though a layer of gravel, and down though the soil. The soil and soil bacteria act as a natural filters that help treat the wastewater.

How do I know if there is something wrong with my septic system?

Home owners should be alert to the following warning signs of a failing septic system:

Test results of well water show the presence of bacteria.
The ground in the area is wet or soggy.
Grass grows greener or faster in the area.
Sewage odors in the house or yard.
Plumbing backups into the house.
Slowly draining sinks and toilets.
Gurgling sounds in the plumbing.

If one or more of these warning signs exist, the home owner should contact a licensed septic system pumper to have the system inspected and pumped.

If you need to replace your septic system, you must fill out an application. Click Here for a copy of the New Home Septic System Application (pdf)

Care and Maintenance of Private Waste Disposal Systems

Septic systems last an average of 20 years. A properly constructed and maintained system can last longer. A system that is not maintained can fail in 2 years or less. Regular maintenance protects the investment and avoids replacement costs. Maintenance also protects the health of your family, the community and the environment. Replacing a failing septic system can cost from $3,000 to $10,000 compared to the $150 to $250 that it costs to have the system inspected and pumped out.

When systems fail, inadequately treated household wastewater is released into the environment. This can contaminate nearby wells, ground water, and drinking water sources. Any contact with untreated human waste can pose significant health risks.

1. Under no circumstances should a homeowner enter a septic tank.

Noxious gases, which are heavier than air, remain in the tank after the cover is removed, and have caused death both to the original victim and to those who attempted to rescue the person from the tank.
A licensed professional should only do entry into, and inspection of a septic.

2. Do not alter the grade over the tile bed after it has been installed and inspected.

This may affect its biological operation and may result in malfunctioning of the system.

3. The septic tank should be inspected at least every two years and pumped out when necessary.

The septic should be pumped out every 3-4 years, or when the sludge in the tank is approaching the 1/3 full mark.
If more than this mount of sludge builds up, there is a chance that particles can get into the disposal field and cause blockage and system failure.

4. Keep water usage to minimum.

The more water used, the more that must be handled by septic drain fields.
Purchase appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines, which have water-conserving features.
Install water conserving showerheads and faucets and fix leaky faucets.
Avoid indiscriminate flushing of toilets.
Minimize the use of spas and hot tubs.
Wash only full loads of clothes, and distribute was loads over sever days rather than all on one day.
Food waste disposer are not recommended for use with private septic systems as the tile bed must be increased by as must as 25% in size.

As an alternative to disposing of organic materials through your septic system, try composting. More information on this is available by calling the Essex-Windsor Waste Management Committee at 1-800-563-3377.

5. Do not use the septic tank as a disposal system.

Do not allow the following items to enter the system, water softener backwash, paints, solvents, grease, coffee grounds, bones, cooking fats, filter cigarette butts, disposal diapers, paper toweling, tissues, sanitary napkins, etc.
Moderate use of household drain solvents, cleaners disinfectants, etc., should not interfere with the operation of the sewage disposal system, however, indiscriminate use may cause problems.
Organic based household cleaners are highly recommended.
White toilet papers are preferred, as it breaks down faster and more completely than colored toilet paper.

6. Do not allow roof drains. sump pump discharge or surface runoff to drain toward the tile field area.

Water ponding upon the tile field and saturation of soil within the tile field reduces the overall effectiveness of the system by reducing the ability of the tile field to dispose of liquid wastes.
Do not install sprinkler systems in the tile bed area.

7. Vehicular traffic (including snowmobiles) should not be allowed over the leaching bed.

Any traffic over the leaching bed may cause solid compaction and damage to the distribution pipe.
In the winter, snowmobile traffic causes compaction of the snow, which can increase the depth of freezing which can have negative effects on the leaching bed.

8. There should be no need to use “starters”, “bacterial feeds” or “cleaners” in the tank.

It is important not to add excessive amounts of soil to the leaching bed as this may prevent evapotranspiration.
It is also important that objects such as patios, sundecks, swimming pools and tool sheds not be located within 15 feet of the leaching bed.
Trees or shrubs should not be planted within 10 feet of this area.
Shrubs planted in the tile bed area as approved by the Ministry of Health can improve the effectiveness of the system.
Avoid planting shallow rooting trees such as willows and cedars near the tank or tile disposal field.

Malfunction of a septic system should be reported promptly to the agency responsible for Part VI of the Ontario Building Code in your municipality.

Department of Planning and Development Services
5950 Malden Road
LaSalle, Ontario
N9H 1S4
Phone: 519-969-7770 Fax: 519-969-9852